A journey through the Heart of Wales
This is based on a trip we did in July 2026 and thoroughly enjoyed. You could combine this with a journey on the Heart of Wales railway, although be warned that the trains on this line are infrequent and unreliable – always have a cycling alternative planned! Bear in mind as well that this is a hilly area – whatever distance you think you can do in a day, if you’re in Wales, halve it!
Where it says BR in the text, there’s a station.
Day 1 Carmarthen BR to Llandeilo BR
18 miles including the Botanical Gardens loop. There are trains to Carmarthen from Manchester (from Sheffield, change at Stockport) London Paddington, Fishguard, Pembroke Dock, Cardiff and Swansea.
We recommend staying at the Hotel Spillman in Carmarthen because of its excellent cycle parking with e-bike charging.
The route uses a brand new (as of July 2026) high quality Active Travel route that isn’t officially marked on OS or Google Maps yet. You won’t find signing for it until you are actually on the route. I’ve included a loop to the National Botanical Gardens of Wales, which are on NCN Route 47.
This path concludes at Ffairfach – the Plough Inn at Rhosman is a good place to stay and they can store your bike. Getting there requires a climb through Llandeilo on the busy A483.
Day 2 Llandeilo to Builth Wells
This is a long day’s ride 38 miles: You could split it and stay in Llandovery, or you could take the train part of the way (if they’re running) the Sugar Loaf area is the most spectacular part of the train ride.
Retrace your tyre tracks for Ffairfach crossroads and take a left onto the Bethlehem road. That will take you through to Llandagog BR. Turn right and after a few seconds turn right off the A4069 onto Neol Pendref. Follow that through to Careg-Lefain and just when you think”hope it’s not that hill ahead” – it is. Up and over and down to a short stretch on the A4069 to Llandovery BR
Take the A483 out of town and turn left on the Cambrian Way, also a road.At Ty-coch the road turns into a track some of which is steep and gravelly – take care. Through the ford, up the other side and turn right to coast down to Cynghordy. A short climb gets you to the Roman Road on the r. That’s a steady rise up to Crychan Forest – stunning views.
You can take a track through the forst or go round via Tirabad. NCN43 does a loop through Llantwrtyd Wells but you can avoid that and go through to Llangammarch Wells to Builth Wells, all on NCN43, (save some energy for the stiff climbs towards the end.) The Royal Welsh Show (the biggest in Europe!) takes place in mid-july. Erris Villa B&B is on the route as you come into town and is cycle -friendly.
Day 3, Builth Wells to Llandrindod Wells BR
12.62 Miles. You leave Builth via a very pleasant parkland route on NCN8 before crossing the River Irfon and starting to climb. Keep following 8 to Newbridge on Wye. Here you have to take to the B4383 which is quite busy (but we hear that an Active Travel route is being constructed) Watch out for NCN825 sign on r. which will take you via a pleasant route to the A4081 – watch out for the alternative Active Travel Route alongside. You can take the Ithon Road then Dyffryn Road to get into town.
We stayed 11 miles out of town at the gorgeous Dragonfly Hut. Our Day 4 Route passes the site.
Day 4,Llandrindod Wells BR to Knighton BR
24 MIles to Knighton: 38 Miles to Craven Arms. Some stiff climbs on this ride!
From Llandrindod Wells, retrace your wheel tracks back to the junction with NCN8 but continue climbing to Llanyre, turning right to take the road through the village. After a couple of miles take the road signposted to Crossgates – it’s called Gravel Road but it isn’t gravel – well, not much anyway) This spits you out on the A44 and you have to do a mile or so on this road, then turn left on tjhe A484, do a mile or do on this road, then r. onto Rock Road which is *very steep!*
Go to the right and follow down to Caeau Gleison, crossing the railway which isin a tunnel. We loved this – there is a fork in the road and you take a sharp left, you can hear the A44 but you don’t have to touch it! On the way up you will cross the railway again.
Keep climbing (there’s another chevron) and follow the ridge. Turn right at the sign that says Hertsease cottages and left at the honesty shop at Trevol (Dragonfly hut is in this area)
You’re not going downhill yet – it’s up and down until you hit route 825 and Llanbister Road Station BR. From here the road follows the railwway quite closely, still up and down with a road surface that varies from great to appalling.You’re following 825 to Knucklas viaduct.
Crossing the valley, 825 hugs the hillside until you come down to Knighton. BR
I’ve included an extension to Craven Arms BR in case your train is cancelled or you miss it. Some of the lanes this uses are in very poor condition so take care, and some of it is on busier roads.
We spent our last night where we recommend the Premier Inn for convenience and the Armouries for food and drink.